My Blog

Putting A Stop to A Cold Winter Garage

09/08/2011 16:31:00

Early Preparation Means Winter Protection

Sadly, summer is drawing to an end, and soon the fall days will stretch into the slow cold days of winter. While the weather is mild and the days are still long, now is good time to start thinking about protecting your home from the harsh ravages of old man winter!

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How to Install Exterior Weatherstripping on a Garage Door : Side Scraping Excess for Weather Stripping

Get construction and home repair tips on how to install weather stripping on a garage - free video.

All of us are aware of the usual things, such as scraping, priming, caulking, and painting to protect the exterior, but what about the amount of wind driven cold air coming in around your overhead garage doors. Did you know the gaps around a typical overhead garage door can be the equivalent of a basketball sized hole in your wall? You certainly wouldn't want that coming into your house, but that is exactly what happens when it hits the interior walls adjacent to the garage interior. The colder air in the garage literally "sucks" the heat through the wall to the garage interior reducing your heating efficiency and decreasing comfort at the affected interior rooms.

Weather Stripping the Door Exterior

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How to Install Exterior Weatherstripping on a Garage Door : Aligning Weather Stripping to a Garage Door

Get construction and home repair tips on how to install weather stripping on a garage - free video.

Manufacturers now have products designed to create a positive draft stop between the exterior trim and overhead garage door, thus reducing the amount of wind driven cold air entering the garage. This is especially important if your garage faces north. Most products can be homeowner installed simply by removing the existing wood trim at the garage overhead door exterior and installing the new trim. I recommend the type with the trim board and seal already attached, as seen in the video, just because they are easier to install and in my opinion provide a better aesthetic. (See Videos). Seals can usually be purchased for less than $50 for a double overhead door and can easily pay for themselves in a single heating season.

Insulating The Door Interior

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Garage Door Insulation Timelapse

Setup the 500D to document the progress of insulating the garage door.

If your overhead garage door is not insulated, you can also install retro fit insulation panels with kits available from most home hardware stores, or by fabricating your own. These can help limit heat loss from the interior of the garage to exterior by installation of fiberglass or rigid foam insulation on the backside interior of the overhead garage door. Again, I have a preference for the rigid foam panels as they easier to install, provide a better aesthetic, and are less susceptible to detachment and contact damage. Kits can be purchased for low end at around $50, and at the higher end for $125 to $150. You can also view the time lapse video included to get an idea of how simple it is to install your own insulation using 4x8 sheets of insulation board compression fitted into the door panel flanges as well if you want to save yourself some money.

By taking time now to insulate and seal your garage door before winter, you can save yourself money and the discomfort of an ice cold garage and car in the winter. For more winter maintenance tips and ways to prepare your home for the soon coming cold weather, please check back for updates to our blog in the coming weeks where we will discuss weatherization and insulation that can further reduce your heating costs and increase your cold weather comfort. You can also visit our website at www.abouthomeinspection.com.

Brad Stringer, BA, MBA

About Home Inspection Co.

918/812-8954

brad.stringer@sbcglobal.net

Save The Air Conditioner!

07/23/2011 15:03:00

Don't Kill Your Condenser!

by: Brad Stringer, BA, MBA

During the lazy, hazy, days of summer with temperatures hovering at 100 or above, it's more important than ever to take notice of your air conditioning systems primary component, the condensing unit. You know, that big noisy thing outside, usually in your backyard that you mow grass into occasionally, but for the most part ignore, until the temperature inside your home tells you it's not working? Although problems with your condensing unit may not be as obvious as this one, the constant demand on your condensing unit in the summer can take its toll. But with some routine maintenance, you can keep your condensing unit running longer, more efficiently, and with fewer problems, (i.e. less money for repairs out of your pocket).

First Things First:

Your condensing unit cools and compresses the coolant gas, (usually freon), by using a compressor to pump the gas through the coils. The fan pulls air through the unit to cool the gas and allow it to be compressed into a liquid to start the cooling process at the interior evaporator coil at the furnace air handler fan. To do this, there must be plenty of air flow across the coils and fins of the condenser. If the sides are blocked with landscaping/shrubs, it can significantly reduce air flow, lowering your efficiency, and in some instances, shortening the life of the compressor and fan motor. (See Photos Above & Below).

Also, sometimes plants are installed when they are small. They then grow to block intake around the unit. Just because the fountain grass is small today, with a little water and sun . . . well, you get the picture.

I've Cut the Grass & Shrubs, Now What?

With the condensing unit fan pulling air through the coils and out the top of the unit, it also brings along dirt, grass, cottonwood debris, and anything else airborne, which can eventually block the coils as well. Units without an exterior case over the coils, like the one on the right, are more susceptible to contact damage and hail, but usually stay fairly clean from the occasional rain or sprinkler.

Ones like this one, on the left are the worst offenders with regards to collecting dirt and debris. Quite often the coils are completely covered with dirt and the homeowner is unaware simply because they cannot see it unless they use a mirror to look under the louvered cases vents from below,unless it is a bit more obvious

. . . like this one!

For a short video on how you can clean your condensing unit yourself and save the cost of a service call, just visit our website, http://www.abouthomeinspection.com

The Rest Of The Story:

You can also insure your unit runs more efficiently if you maintain the insulation around the larger coolant line from the exterior condensing unit to the cooling coil at the furnace. This suction line should be cold and "sweaty" if the unit is functioning normally. By installing/maintaining the insulation on the line, it will lower cooling loss as freon travels through the lines between the interior and exterior unit particularly through hot attics and exterior exposures at the condenser.

Lastly, make certain your unit is level. Quite often the concrete mounting pads for the exterior condensing units are placed over loose fill dirt which settles over time. This can result in the unit "leaning" to one side which can affect compressor efficiency, and in most instances will shorten the life of the compressor.

So remember, don't ignore your condensing unit, especially prior to the summer cooling season. Killing your condensing unit in mid summer cannot only be uncomfortable, but it can also be very costly with units running anywhere from $2500 to $4500 to replace on average, if you can find an HVAC technician who is available in a reasonable amount of time during their busiest time of the year.

For more information and maintenance tips, visit our website abouthomeinspection.com

Or contact our offices at 918/812-8954

1950's Vintage Wiring Awareness

03/22/2011 12:36:00

1950's Vintage Wiring Installations Not Inherently Unsafe

Many homes built in the 1950's still have the same wiring and in many instances the same panels which were installed at the time of initial construction. While a home buyer might have concerns regarding the age of the installation, if it is a professional install with limited modifications or additions over time, it can continue to provide many additional years of service.

The primary concern with this type of installation is that in most instances it is a two-wire, hot and neutral, system with no ground wire to the switches and receptacles. Additional measures, such as the use of GFCI's/AFCI's and surge suppression devices can usually be added affordably improving the safety of the system. (see previous post regarding GFCIs/AFCIs by clicking here).

The type of circuit wiring found in these systems is readily identifiable by the braided type of exterior sheathing. Newer wiring has a lighter colored non metallic plastic sheath and is commonly called by its manufacturer's name of Romex®. Romex® is generally a hot and a neutral with a bare ground wire bundled into the sheathing A mixture of these two in an installation is typically indicative of some upgrading or additions over time. Most concerns with older wiring typically involve the level of craftsmanship associated with the upgrading. Non professional splicing with electrical tape and cap nuts not in a junction box with a cover is common. (see photo above). Installation of circuit wiring on the surface of a wall or through an interior space without securing in conduit is also fairly common. if you see any of these defects, it is best to have the installation evaluated for correction by a qualified electrician to insure safety.

These systems are also often protected by a cartridge type fuse panel with a manual trip lever. Some electricians actually consider this type of installation to be inherently safer than a breaker which can possibly fail in the latched position. When a fuse "burns out" it is not resettable and will require replacement with a new fuse. While inconvenient, it does insure that if the fuse were somehow damaged, it is replaced with a new fuse.

So remember, if you are considering purchasing a 1950's vintage home, it is advisable to have the electrical system evaluated by a qualified electrician, or Licensed Home Inspector as part of pre-purchase inspections to determine the current condition of the system and if any corrections or repairs will be required to insure its safe, continued function. However, in most instances, re-wiring of the residence will not be required.

GFCI's & AFCI's Improve Safety

03/20/2011 15:26:00

GFCI's & AFCI's For Improved Safety Of Residential Electrical Systems

GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interuptor and AFCI stands for Arc Fault Circuit Interuptor. These devices are designed to minimize the potential for electrical shock associated with an electrical ground fault, or "short" as it is commonly known, as well a potential for fire in the event of an "arc" between the hot and neutral of the system.

GFCI's are required at any receptacle in close proximity to water, such as kitchens, bathrooms, exteriors, and even the garage. It works by comparing the current flow through the receptacle from the hot to the neutral. If it senses a difference, it trips the GFCI. GFCI's can also be found at breakers in the breaker panel and can protect every receptacle on that particular circuit, so just because you do not see them at the required locations does not always mean they are not present.

AFCI's are a fairly recent addition to the residential building code and are typically found integral to the breakers at the panel. AFCI protection is currenlty only required on bedroom circuits due to the potential for arcing and ignition of curtains and window covering typically found in bedrooms. These devices sense for arcing anywhere in the circuit, so even if the fault is at a connection in a junction box, damaged extension cord, etc, it should trip, limiting the likelihood of a fire.

Both of these devices are now required in modern construction, and retrofitting is required on any major remodels of existing dwellings. Upgrading on existiing electrical systems is advised as a safety upgrade.

Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing Update!

02/18/2011 16:54:00

New CSST Gas Tubing-No Bonding Required?

Although Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing for gas service in residential construction has been around for several years now, in recent years, there has been some controversy with regards to its safety if it should become "charged", such as during a lightning strike.

So What's The Big Deal

Originally, homes were supplied with gas via installation of black iron piping which has a thicker wall and is very rigid, making it less susceptible to mechanical damage and possible leaks. Being rigid, however, also made it more difficult to install, requiring the skills of a licensed plumber and significant amounts of time to measure, thread, and install the pipe.

CSST on the other hand is generally installed as a single run from a central manifold to each supplied appliance. Having a thinner flexible wall makes it ideal for bending around corners and aligning with the connection to the appliance. This makes the installation in most instances faster and easier. It also makes it more susceptible to mechanical damage and leaks.

As a result, the manufacturers of CSST set stringent guidelines for installation of their product to insure safety. However, in some instances, these guidelines were either not fully understood, or were ignored resulting in the potential for lightning strikes resulting in a "blow out" of the CSST gas line in looking for a less resistant path to ground. This resulted not only in a gas leak, but in some instances, a fire.

As a result, CSST was required to be "bonded" with a #6 AWG wire at the meter or before the first connection of CSST to the black iron gas line. Recently, manufacturer's have produced a "new" CSST gas line with a heavier/thicker sleeving material that most are touting as not needing "manufacturer" required bonding. (See the video below for what the new tubing looks like).

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New CSST Gas Line Tubing

New CSST Gas LIne Tubing does not need any "manufacturer" required bonding, however, be aware that current code in most jurisdictions does not differentiate between the "old" and the "new" and require...

Be aware, however, that current code does not differentiate the "old" CSST from the "new" CSST, and most still require bonding, even if it is the "new" type. So even if the seller argues against requiring bonding, remember, code does not currently make the distinction.

When in doubt, it is my opinion as a Professional Licensed Home Inspector, that you should bond and ere to the side of caution.

Protect Pipes From Freeze Damage

01/21/2011 15:29:00

Second only to hurricanes, frozen and broken water pipes cause more losses in terms of the number of homes damaged and the total amount of claims paid by insurance companies in the U.S. Repair costs of up to $50,000 are not uncommon according to insurance experts. Even a small leak can deposit a significant amount of water in a short period of time resulting in significant losses.

Damages caused by frozen, ruptured water pipes include:

Wallpaper, and paint peal from the drywall and can turn moldy.
Damaged/saturated drywall, which is now susceptible to mold growth.
Kitchen cabinets warp and delaminate.
Carpets and draperies damaged and may need complete replacement depending on how long they remain saturated.
Lost family pictures and photo albums in most cases they can not be saved if wet.
Important records and paperwork that in many cases cannot be replaced.
Damage to antiques, furniture and clothing.
Mold and fungal growth.

Additionally, some insurance companies are issuing policies with exclusions regarding mold remediation. So while the insurance company may pay a claim for water related damages, mold remediation may not be covered. With temperatures now remaining below freezing, make sure you are closing up crawlspace openings where cold wind from the north can enter and possibly freeze pipes in the crawlspace. Also, leave cabinets under sinks open to allow for warm air circulation around undersink piping, particularly ones with plumbing on an outside facing wall. Installation of insulation or "heat tape" around supply pipes during the winter is also an option, (see photo below). If you have a home that is vacant with the utilities off, consider winterizing by a professional winterization contractor. About Home Inspection Co. offers winterization services to homeowner and Realtors® to insure against moisture related damages from frozen/burst pipes. For a limited time, winterization services for average size homes start at $125.

While there can be no guarantees against the damage Old Man Winter can bring to your home, taking a few simple precautions now can make the difference between protection and post moisture damage correction.

For additional information on winterization or other home inspection related questions, Call Us Today at: 918/812-8954.

Winterization: Protecting Your Home Against Freeze Damage

01/04/2011 17:08:00

With mild winters we typically experience here in the midwest, many people don't give great attention to possible freeze related damages which can occur to a property during cold winter months. Our frost depth for placement of footings and burying water lines etc., against potential freezing is only 18". That is also the reason we do not usually see many basements in Oklahoma, with exception of the need for a storm shelter in the event of a tornado. There is no need to excavate to a significant depth for installation of a homes foundation to justify the added expense of installation of a basement or the added concrete in the support walls.

With all of that said, however, homes, particularly those left vacant with no utilities during the winter can sustain damage from freezing, but particularly from moisture if supply and drainage pipes are not properly winterized. It is best to leave the utilities on, but with the thermostat temperature set at approximately 55 degrees. The added monthly utility bill is nothing when compared to the cost of repairs for damage from frozen pipes.

State Farm® insurance has estimated the AVERAGE moisture damage claim from frozen/burst pipes at $15,000!

If you choose to winterize, it is best to leave the process to a professional who understands the intricacies of the process of winterization. Your contractor should include in the winterization procedure removal of moisture from the supply and waste lines using some type of forced air evacuation, including the water in the hot water tank and exterior hose spigots. Additionally, RV or environmentally safe anti freeze should be installed at each of the drains including toilets, tubs, sinks, floor drains, laundry, and dishwasher. Posting of signage indicating the home has been winterized is also important so that others accessing the property, as in a home listed for sale, do not inadvertantly circumvent the winterization by using toilets etc, or by turning on water at the service main.

Even with the home being winterized, I would recommend checking on the property at least once a week, particularly during periods of extended cold weather, as other freeze related concerns other than plumbing may present themselves.

If we can help you with your winterization/inspection services, or if you have any additional Home Inspection related questions, please contact our offices at 918/293-9600.

Brad Stringer

About Home Inspection Co.

Owasso, OK

Lic. #61